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Banh Mi is one of those foods that anyone interested in food must try at least once in their life. It is simply a stunning confluence of colours, flavours and textures. And yes, it is a sandwich. A humble sandwich.

But what a sandwich. Crispy light baguette (not the chewy kind), tangy lightly pickled vegetables, creamy mayonnaise and, um, steamed liver pate. Well, it used to be liver pate and tiles of sliced cold meats. Now almost any protein seems eligible for the banh mi treatment, but usually still meat: grilled pork and pork skin, roasted chicken, seared beef. In some cafes and off some food carts the original light-style sandwich can still be found: a smear of seasoned mayo, a few thin slices of meat, a light hand with the veg and herbs. Once it went Stateside things naturally went large. I think this is somewhere in between. And…